Thanksgiving 2015

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

This morning, we participated in the Turkey Trot to raise money for the Ballard Food Bank.  It's an awesome downhill 5k fun run that ends at Golden Gardens park, and you have a wonderful view of the Olympic Mountains for most of the run.  This year, both Silas and Maeve self-motored the whole way.  Silas with a personal best of 48 minutes and Maeve with a personal best of 38 minutes.

Silas and I nearing the finish line in Golden Gardens.  I'm checking my watch because Silas really wanted to make sure he beat his goal of 1 hour.    Puget Sound and the Olympics in the background.  What a wonderful Thanksgiving morning, sunny and in the 30s.

On the playground after the run. Go team!

Reverse culture shock

Last month, I was in the US for the first time in 11 months, for the graduation of my students Brian Burg and Kıvanç Muşlu.

When I first landed, my initial reaction was, "How unusual -- everyone is speaking English."  My second reaction was, "Their accents are really good."  Then I interacted with more people and revised my opinion about the accents.

Another surprise was washcloths in the hotel bathroom and water-saving showerheads.

I was also taken aback my the friendly, helpful staff at stores and restaurants.  They were bright, cheery, and solicitous, and I didn't quite know what to make of it by comparison with the slow, sullen service I have become used to.

Walking around the University District near campus, it seemed like a freak show of the mentally ill shouting at the air or other people, many dozens of homeless in the streets, and people trying to hide their bodies under a deluge of piercings and tattoos.  I presume that all this exists in Madrid and Buenos Aires, but I don't know where; it isn't at the university.

Pucón, Chile

We spent a week in February in Pucon, Chile, with friends.  Pucon is a lovely town, very touristy and busy in town in February, but surrounded by awesome national parks, including Volcan Villarica and Parque Nacional Huerquehue.  Miguel, Cecila and family were amazing hosts, putting us up in their home, letting us play with Ray (the dog) and showing us around the region.

Our first day, we went out to a thermal spa.  Our friends recommended a couple and in the end, we went to Termas Huife.  It's a spa on the side of a creek with several warm outdoor pools as well as an indoor pool with jets.  We weren't big fans of the indoor pool as it was too hot, but the outdoor pools were great and there was enough shade for us to eat on lounge chairs outside.  

Our second full day, we took our very small rent-a-car to a trail head for the Rio Turbio in the national park.  We found the road to the trail head and headed up the gravel road for a number of kilometers.  Our maps were less than perfect, and our car had very low clearance.  A few kilometers in, we stopped at a farm and asked a farmer chopping wood for directions.  His directions were a bit unclear, but while we were chatting an Chilean family with two kids and a big pick-up truck came up behind us, looking for the same trail head.   Not far from the farm, the road was too wash-boarded out for our car, and the other family kindly picked us up and took us a couple more kilometers in, until they didn't want to go any farther either.  We parked at a clearing with a sheppard's hut and several burros, and started walking uphill from there.  We walked a couple K along the logging road, past an old logging station, but never got to the lookout, which was supposed to look over the Rio Turbio and have views of Volcan Villarica.  We never had more than peek-a-boo views of the volcano, but we saw tons of old trees, lots of witch's hair lichen, and enjoyed walking with  new-found friends.

Maeve collected quite a bit of witch's hair and made herself a wig once we got home.  Very stylish.

Another day we went up to Volcan Villarica.  You can drive quite a ways up the cinder cone, where there is a ski slope with lots of chairlifts in winter.  In summer it's just lots of pumice.  The mountain was smoking off and on the whole time we were there, so you weren't allowed to climb the summit, which otherwise is a long day's hike.  Two weeks after we left, there was a nice eruption.  Luckily, our friends had already left and nobody in Pucon was hurt.

We spent a lot of time on the cinder cone, a lot of it throwing rocks downhill to see how far they would go.  Silas had a great time.  I'd never been on a cinder cone before.  It's very stark & lovely.  Amazing that the winter ski resort is up there, but I suppose it's easier to maintain above the tree line.

Another day we went to Caburga, which has a lovely beach with tons of amenities.  You could swim, rent all manner of water equipment & boats, and there were plenty of ambulatory salesmen with food, drinks, & toys.  The kids had a great time in the sand and in the water.  Mike and I even got a swim in.

On the way back to Pucon from Caburga, we stopped at Ojos de Caburga, an attraction on the river Caburga.  There were a lot of pools and falls in the river.   The kids, including Martin, enjoyed wading out of the sun.  We had to pay to get in, and then it was a short walk to the first pools and then a little walking around the complex.  It was full of tourists wading around, swimming, cutting illegally through very reinforced safety fences with small children to get to other swimming holes, etc. 

I don't have photos, but there was a pool in the housing development we were staying in.  It was great - almost every late afternoon we went swimming.  The water in the pool was in the sun, but still quite cold. Silas came out shivering every day.

Our longest hike of the trip was in national park Huerquehue.  We hiked a version of Los Lagos route which passed by several viewpoints of Volcan Villarica as well as waterfalls and Lakes where we could wade.  The forest there is amazing, it's full of Araucaria trees, the weird indigenous pine-like trees, as well as the native Nothofagus species we'd seen elsewhere in Patagonia.

View of Volcan Villarica from Huerquehue Park.

Baby Arauraria in the foreground.  One of the lakes, Verde, Chico or Toro.   The scenery was all like this - walking in woods around lakes.    This was perhaps our best hike in Patagonia. 

The park was awesome, and we made it in our little low-clearance rent-a car, although we did park in the parking lot and all smush into Cecelia's SUV for the last couple of kilometers track up to the trail head.  Next time note to self - if we're going to go into parks on washed-out dirt roads, we should get a car with higher clearance. 

From Pucon, we took an overnight sleeper bus to Santiago to catch our flight to Buenos Aires.  That bus was great.  We were on the second story, and had seats that reclined all the way back with footrests that popped up so we had a little bed.   We got into Santiago pretty early in the Am to the main bus station, and had about 4 hours before we needed to take the bus to the airport.  It took a while to figure out where we could check our luggage and how & when to buy the tickets to the airport, and then we took off to see a little of the city.

Then we had our worst experience of the trip.  Our taxi driver ripped us off, first by not taking us the direct route where we wanted to go and then by taking too much money and not giving us change.  We didn't actually loose much money, but it was an unfortunate downer.   There wasn't too much to do in the couple of hours we had in Santiago first thing in the morning, but we'd happened to hit the time & day they had the changing of the guard in front of La Moneda palace.  The square was a great place for the kids to run around, and we had a good spot on the barricades to see the mounted units & band marching in and out.

Around Bariloche, Feb. 2015

We spent a week in early February in Bariloche.  As in much of our travels, we rented a house in town and then did day trips.  Our house, from Air BnB, was great.  It was a couple of K outside of town, which complicated grocery shopping, but included a garden with a play house, which was perfect for our family.

Bariloche has a good public transit system, so we used buses half the time and then rented a car for a couple of days.  Those days, we could have taken package tours, but having our own transit gave us more flexibility.  It was our first time renting and car and driving in Argentina, and driving in town was an experience, particularly the uncontrolled intersections.  We also paid more attention to the gas stations, which often had lines for cars lined up waiting for the pump.

Our first day trip was a boat drip on Lago Nahuel Huapi to the National Park of the Arrayanes.  Google translate tells me the arrayan is "myrtle" in English.  This is a microscopic national park within the larger national park that surrounds Bariloche, and includes a stand of Arrayanes.  The boat ride across the lake was lovely, and it dropped us at one end of the Arrayan woods to do a short walk on a boardwalk through the trees.  These are trees that are regularly found alongside creeks, and usually only grow to be large bushes, but here have formed a woods.  They were lovely, their brownish trunks rising off the forest floor.

Another day, we took the city bus out to Lago Gutierrez, one of many in the national park, that had a waterfall, a hike, and the possibility of swimming in the lake.  The kids were determined to swim as much as possible.  The waterfall, the waterfall of the Duendes (fairy folk), was tiny.  From there, we walked up to a lookout over the lake.    Mike and I enjoyed the view while the kids played under a tree in the shade.

 Since it was a nice sunny day, and Lago Gutierrez has a nice beach, on the way back to the bus stop, the kids wanted to play in the water.  In the absence of bathing suits, they stripped down and hopped in.  I think it was a little chilly despite being  warm summer day.

 The next day, we had a car and drove the Llao Llao circuit.   Llao Llao is another name for pan de indio, an edible fungus.  This is a short drive around a peninsula within the national park.  There is a famous old hotel there, which we tried to visit but the security really didn't want us to park.  We did a short hike through lots of cañya colihue, and then a longer hike around to Cerro Llao Llao.  At this point, we didn't understand why all of the caña colihue canes were brown and sere.  We later cornered a park ranger and learned that this plant has a massive bloom cycle every 50 years or so, and had bloomed 10 year ago.  So the head canes were from that bloom cycle, and the rest was new growth.  The canes apparently last a very long time without rotting, again not something we're used to in the Pacific Northwest, where rotting is quick.

This is a view of the Llao Llao peninsula from a chairlift.   It includes some of Lake Nahuel Huapi as well as several other lakes.  These are partially glaciall-fed, but mostly from rainfall and snow melt from the Andes, and not nearly the same blue-green, glacial milk color of Lago Argentina farther south.  

Maeve and Silas passed a lot of the day carrying around caña colihue canes.  The also did a lot of Army marching.  This was particularly helpful around Cerro Llao Llao, where we somehow got off on a side trail, as usual, before backtracking to find the main trail that would lead to our car.

Afterwards, we went swimming.  The first swimming hole we walked to was off a dock, not a beach, so we walked another K or 2 to a nice bay.  We all got in - Mike and I wading and the kids got wet.  It was cold. 

The next day, we went to Villa la Angostura, a town on the north side of Lake Nahuel Huapi. It's another cute tourist town, and has the shortest river in the world (they say) the 100 M or so Rio Correntoso, that flows from the Lago Correntoso to Lago Nahuel Huapi.  There's a trail alongside the river, and we walked the whole thing, from source to mouth.  Here's a photo of the kids on the footbridge crossing the river, with the new highway bridge, part of the improvements to interstate 40, the famous highway that runs the length of the Argentinean Andes. 

 Here's us at the source of the river, Lago Correntoso.  The lovely green plants in this photo are scottish broom.  This incredible plant in high summer has brown seed pods that dry out and pop in the sun, exploding seeds everywhere.  We found it throughout our walks around Bariloche, and had great fun pulling off the pods and exploding seeds at each other.  It is, like the pine tree, a horribly invasive species that crowds out the slower-growing native bushes.

What is a day in Nahuel Huapi park in summer without a stop at the beach?  This is the beach at Lago Correntoso.  The kids played in the water a bit, played a lot in the sand, and came out frozen.

The next day, bright and early to beat the tourist buses and hit the time points for the one-way roads, we headed out to the Cerro Tronador part of the park.  Tronador (thunderer) is the biggest mountain in the Bariloche part to the Andes and is on the border with Chile.   We took our little rental car, heading out of town going south on highway 40, a newly paved blacktop road, and quickly got to the turnoff for Tronador.  From there it was a slow ride over gravel roads.  Going in was good. No traffic, no dust, just us and a waterfall.

Our first stop was Casacada los Alerces (Waterfall of the Larches).  This lovely little waterfall, reached from a short walk on trail and boardwalks (there are lots and lots of boardwalks in the Argentinean national parks), is where the Rio Manso (Sluggish River, huh?) drops from the highlands near el Tronador down to it's meandering park (lower Rio Manso that gives it its name) until is meanders over the Andes to its outlet in the Pacific.  The water was an amazing color.

We had some issues with understanding the westward flow of an Argentinean river - how is a river that has an outlet in the Pacific in Argentina?  Where is the Continental Divide?    It turns out this is a rather contentious issue.  Perrito Moreno, he of the name of the famous El Califate glacier, was an Argentian explorer and government official.  He was charged, among other things, with exploring the Andes region and getting more Argentinians to settle there to substantiate their claim to the un-explored territory.  He negotiated a complicated treaty with Chile which ultimately gave all of the land until the tallest mountains to Argentina, even though this territory had originally been explored and settled from over the Andes in Chile, not from the Argentinian plains.  This was true of the native Americans - the Mapuche went over the mountains into Argentina in response to pressure from Spanish conquistadores radiating out from Peru.  They were later followed by Spanish missionaries from Chile who crossed the Andes to evangelize and calm tensions with the Native Americans on the east side of the mountains that were raiding Spanish settlements on the west side. Moreno helped devise Argentina's strategy for claiming all the land east of the Andes by creating land-grant incentives to settlers and creating Argentina's first national park, Nahuel Huapi, in the disputed area around Bariloche. 

After the waterfall, it was another drive on a dirt/gravel road through the park to the Ventisquero Negro, or Black Glacier.  This glaciEr falls off of snow & glaciers on top of El Tronador, and in the process gets lots of dirt mixed in, therefore the name.  So it's a glacier formed from snow and glacial droppings from another glacier farther up El Tronador, which gets its name from the thundering sound of falling snow and ice.  This glacier is rapidly retreating.  It's the start of Rio Manso, and there is a new (in the last couple of decades) lake that has formed as the glacier retreats.  There's an awesome lookout, and we, in our little rentacar, got there right before the hoards of tourist buses, so we had it to ourselves for lunch.

After Tronador we drove to the end of the road where there was a cafe (a truism in Argentina) and a short walk up a creek to a waterfall called Garganta del Diablo (devil's throat).  It was a nice little waterfall but not to be confused with the Garganta del Diablo at Iguazu..  We saw lizards and played a lot in the rocks on the side of the creek.  We saw a lot of lizards in Patagonia.  Jumping on rocks in water, throwing rocks in water, and generally playing in water keeps the kids happy. 

Farther down the mountain at Pampa Linda, we took a hike to another waterfall, Saltillo de las Nalcas.  This is another tiny little waterfall, reached through a short hike through lots of caña colihue, crossing the Rio Manso, and with several excellent views of El Tronador.

There was a multi-day partner race through the mountains that was spending the night after one long leg from Bariloche to Pampa Linda, to cross over to another mountain hut the next day.  On the way out, we were behind a nice line of cars with exhausted runners & walkers slogging uphill in the car dust.  They were amazing, keeping moving in horrible dusty conditions, and provided entertainment to the kids on our slow way out of the park.

Our last full day in Bariloche, we went rafting on the Rio Manso.  It was called rafting, but it was more like floating.  Several companies from Bariloche will take you rafting for similar prices on similar stretches of the Rio Manso for a similar duration, and we picked the company that had space on the warmest day and provided wet suits.   Just because summer in Bariloche isn't really all that warm.  

It turned out to be a lovely day, maybe 70 degrees in the sun, so on an even slower than usual stretch of the river, we got out for a swim.

The float/swim was another great way to look at the mixed Cedar/Notofagus forest and enjoy meandering through the park.   The kids quickly learned how to identify the cedars (pointy) and the lenga (round) trees.  The Rio Manso here really is manso (placid), nothing like the Cascada los Alerces in the upper part of the river.    The water here is very clear, which we'd noticed at the waterfall.  There is a big change in water quality from the upper river, which has a lot of glacial milk (see the milky lake in the Ventisquero Negro photo above), to the lower river, which is crystal clear.  Most of the glacial milk sediments in Lago Mascardi which leaves the vibrant but clear colors we saw. The river drops very little from the Cascada (also lovely blue-green) where we'd been the day before, to the border with Chile where it flows over the Andes and into the Pacific. 

The kids were pretty cold after the swim and didn't paddle much the whole trip, but there wasn't much need.  A couple times Mike and I had to pull our weight for all of 15 strokes or so, but it was mostly the guide. At the end, we met the van with dry clothes and had a snack with hot cocoa and bread with yummy dulce de leche in a cafe next to the river, conveniently situated for all those rafting and fishing tourists.  What is a day in nature without a nearby cafe!

From Bariloche, we were heading across the Andes again to meet friends (Miguel - Mike's former officemate, Ceclia, Jose Miguel, Martin, and Ray the dog) in Pucón.  We had a lot of trouble figuring out the international bus connections from abroad, since we don't have either Chilean or Argentinian national identity numbers,  but eventually worked with a travel agent based out of San Martin de los Andes to get us a transfer to San Martin de los Andes and then an international bus to Pucón.  The route over the border went past the Volcano Lanin, and through steppe with lots of Araucania trees, as shown in the foreground of the photo taken near the border crossing.  These trees are very interesting conifers and an emblematic tree in Chile, giving their name to the region around Pucón.

This was our 3rd time crossing the Argentina-Chile border. We got out of the bus in Argentina, threw out all our organic trash, had our visas processed out with the other 50 passengers.  Wandered around outside where they are building a new toll booth.  Got back in the bus and drove a kilometer, where we did the same thing in Chile in a much nicer building with more serious customs check, we took off our luggage which was sniffed for money, drugs and agricultural products.  Then on though highway construction on the Chilean side, widening and paving the road all the way from Pucón to the border.

More fossils and birds

Our next to last day in El Califate, we took another day trip to look at fossils.  This was another package tour, catchily named the Bosque Petrificado (Petrified forest), which picked us up at our hotel and took us to an estancia where we were going to do a guided walk and look at petrified wood.  The estancia, near the river Leona, was on Lago Viedma between El Califate and El Chalten, so we went north on highway 40 this time.

Our guide was super-knowledgeable so we learned a ton about geology. We first stopped in a road-side cafe to pick up some folks from El Chalten that were part of the guided tour.  Then we went off road, past cattle gates, and onto bumpy estancia roads.  Through lots of scrub to get to a lime-stone moonscape:

This land had been part of a pre-historic river delta in the times before the continents all split apart, and over time the sandstone was uncovered and eroded.  In places, there were more durable layers that protected under-layers from erosion.  Today, most of the movement of this land occurs over a week or so of the spring melt.  There is very little precipitation here, and almost all of it is snow.  In the first spring melt, it turns into running water and forms the washed-looking eroded cap for the year. 

While we walked around the circuit with the guide, listening to explanations, the kids explored the hills and listened a little.

There were several examples of dinosaur bones, but the coolest fossils were trees.  There were lots of parts of petrified trunks.

We ate lunch out of the sun in some sandstone eroded caves, walked out of the valley and up to the van for the ride home.

Our last day in El Califate was a half-day, as we flew out in the afternoon to Bariloche, so we went for a walk in a bird preserve outside downtown on the shores of Lago Argentina.  It's a couple of a kilometer circuit, and it's incredibly different from the desert-moon-like landscape we'd seen on the steppe the day before on the fossil walk.

This is shows a colony of flamencos.  We stayed on boardwalks and clearly-signed paths, which didn't get very close to where the flamencos were in the lake.  But we did see a ton of birds.  All of this at the outlet of a creek into the lake, a fragile lake-side marshy ecosystem that supports tons of bird life.

Uppsala Glacier and Estancia Cristina

One very long day in January 2015, we did a day trip from El Califate to Estancia Cristina. We took a  fast catamaran from the port outside El Califate to down the lake to Estancia Cristina, a tourist estancia on National Park land that is close to Glaciar Uppsala, another huge glacier that feeds into Lago Argentina and that is retreating.  This is a standard day-trip from El Califate, and we'd chosen the trip option that included a 4x4 ride up to a short hike to a viewpoint of the glacier. 

The hike up to the glacier included a pass by marine fossils in rocks.  It was my first time just seeing fossilized remains hanging around.   This was pretty near the lookout where we saw one arm of Uppsula Glacier.  There was tons of barren rock, like a moonscape, without even the expected scrubby growth we'd passed by in the 4 x 4.    This is because all of this land, fossils and all, had been under the glacier for thousands of years.  In the last few decades, the glacier has retreated several kilometers.  There is a new glacial lake, which you can see behind Mike and Silas in the photo below, and there has been no time for erosion to create enough topsoil on the glacially scraped rock for anything to start growing.

The arm of Uppsula Glacier that is behind Mike and Silas is the side, not the main face of the glacier.  The main arm is on the other side of an island.   This Glacier comes at an angle off the icesheet, which is one of the reasons it is retreating so quickly.   On the hills on the side of the glacier, you can see bare rock, and then above that, trees, marking most recent line of the maximum height of the glacier.  We're talking a lot of melting ice.

The walk up to the viewpoint, taken from the viewpoint ridge looking back towards the estancia grounds.  This lake was not glacially fed, but was filled with snowmelt.  It is completely different in color from the glacially-fed lakes.  In the background, you can see that one row of hills over was not recently covered by glaciers and had vegetation.

On the way back to El Califate, we went up another arm of Lago Argentina to see the main face of Uppsula Glacier.  You can't actually get close enough to see much of the glacier because there is an ice wall, meaning that there are so many icebergs in the lake that it's dangerous to go closer to the glacier.  Many were blue ice, and in fantasitcal shapes.

Family Ziplining

There are lots of opportunities to go ziplining in Patagonia, one in every town. Pagatonia is into outdoor adventure tourism, with touts for ziplines (tirolesa), horsebackriding, rockclimbing, 4x4 rides, and trekking.  The kids had been talking about going on a zipline since Ushuaia, where there is a course through the trees at the bottom of the ski slope leading up to Glaciar Martial.  So in El Califate, we found a zip line course that would allow adventurous 5-year-olds and decided to go for a ride.  We found this one by walking down the main drag in El Califate and stopping in at their storefront booking office.  For some reason, both this activity and the fossil walk we did later in the week were not in the guidebooks, and both were great.

The course was on an estancia, of course.  Every estancia tries to make the biggest possible tourist buck out of their resources.  This estancia, Cerro Frias, had a fancy hotel, ziplining, 4x4 riding and other activities, as well as a restaurant/outfitting area.   Like with many day activities, the estancia van picked us up in our hotel and took us to the estancia, about 20 K outside El Califate towards the mountains.  Those 20 K made a big difference in the vegetation, as the closer you are to the mountains, the more precipitation.  And since the estancia is close to Lago Argentina, which was formed as glaciers retreated, it's lucky enough to have a big hill with a nice valley and 2 parallel ridge lines.   I'm unclear if this is a foothill or a glacial moraine. They use the ridge lines to run the zipline across the gorge.  So we weren't in trees in the woods, but rather zipped from one ridge line to another over the 500 M wide gorge.  It was awesome. 

First, we got fitted up there in helmets and harnesses.   From there, we went uphill on a 4x4 track to the first platform.

From the parilla/gear shop, there was  a great view back of over the estancia's piece of Patagonian prairie, with a view of Torres del Paine, Chile, in the distance.  That part of the estancia was good for grazing, and the few patches of green are fields of alfalfa that they grow with irrigation to supplement the livestock's diet.  There are also some free-range guanaco under the trees.

The part we were on for the zipline was also used for cattle, and we passed a few overhead. 

Our zip lining guides were great.  They called Silas "Puma" as he was into pumas, the apex Patagonian predator,  and Maeve "Pluma," or feather.  Mike and I were Mama and Papa.  There were several other folks in our group, including a couple of rotund gentlemen, and they were called "musculoso."  The kids thought this nicknaming was great, as the guides talked back and forth on their radios, letting the other side know who was coming so they'd be ready for the landing and getting the OK.  Silas wanted very badly to go on his own, but he was generally too light and went hitched onto Mike.

Maeve had a great time.  Except for one time when she rode tandem with me, giving us enough mass to go a bit faster, she went on her own.  You can see the take off pad on the other side of the canyon.

On the last run, they let Silas go on his own because there was enough downward pitch that he could make it to the end.  He was screaming and doing acrobatics the whole 500 M.  An awesome day.

Perrito Moreno Glaciar

We spent about a week in El Califate in late January.   Every day was a new adventure, but the main reason we'd come was to see the Perito Moreno Glacier.  This is one of the few glaciers that is stable, as it comes directly off the ice sheet.  Over the past 100 years it has kept to a constant cycle of growing and retreating into Lago Argentina, where it periodically comes to rest on a peninsula and then breaks off massively.  But there are regular glacial calvings, small and big, as part of the glacier falls into the lake.  Right now, it's several hundred meters from the peninsula, and there are great views of the leading edges of the glacier from a couple kilometers of boardwalks.

This is a view of the mountains, Lago Argentina, and the valley Perrito Moreno slides out of from the Glaciarium, a museum about glaciers 10 K outside El Calefate.   We spent a morning here, learning about ice compaction, global warming, and the southern Patagonian icesheet.

We did a day trip to Perito Moreno which included a short hike in the park.  This was one of our first views of the SW edge of the glacier.  A little closer, you can see icebergs floating in the lake and the milky color of the glacial silt in the water. 

It's hard to explain how impressive the massive wall of ice was.  Each face was about a kilometer long, in this photo you can see the leading edge that's not far from the peninsula with the boardwalks as well as one of the sides.

On the boardwalks, we saw numerous small calvings.  You can see where ice has fallen and it spreading out in concentric half-circle from the wall of the glacier.  We were on a boat in the morning looking at one face, and spent the afternoon on the boardwalks, when the sun was off and on on the glacier.  We saw a lot more calvings in the afternoon.

This photos is actually from a bathroom break on the way to the glacier.  We got off at a small estancia that had a cafe with bathrooms and resident sheep and guanaco babies. Maeve and Silas both got to give them a bit of milk.  The sheep was particularly aggressive to get to the bottle, and its fur was filled with burrs.