Saturday, November 22, 2008
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Saturday, October 18, 2008
View from Schauinsland
Freiburg and the Black Forest
October 8-13, 2008
We were in the Black Forest last weekend for our last trip in Germany. We’ve had off and on weather here in Saarbrücken this fall, and were hopeful that Freiburg, the sunny part of Germany, would be nice for hiking. And it was. The first day was super-foggy and we did a nice hike without being able to see more than a couple of trees in front of us. But it got better and we had a great time.
We stayed at an apartment on Augustusplatz, a busy square in the middle of downtown Freiburg. Downtown is pretty small, so both remaining medieval towers were less than 5 minutes walk, as was the Muenster. The train station was about 15 minutes. We’d rented this apartment for the location and because they advertised having internet and there were deadlines at work while we were gone and I knew I’d need to work (me needing internet for a change). We got to Freiburg about noon, after a 3-hour train ride. The room wasn’t ready so we at lunch at a café on Augustusplatz - pumpkin soup and sandwiches. Germany is big into seasonal foods so pumpkin is on pretty much every menu now.
Then we got into the apartment and put Maeve down for a nap, and I started looking for the Ethernet plug in. I had my cable with me, and assumed they’d probably have that or DSL. Nothing, just a phone line with extra jacks. So I went down and asked for help, and 30 minutes later someone came by with a print-out of instructions for Windows 98 computers. No cable, no DSL, no Ethernet, no wireless: analog dial-up. She claimed it was ISDN, and told me where I could find an electronics store to buy a cable. I took a picture of the jack and took my laptop with me to the store, where I bought an analog cable. After several more tries, making sure to plug the cable in correctly and dialing 0 before the number, I finally logged in and sent the work I’d done on the train. Needless to say, there was a lot of logging in and downloading, working off-line and uploading over the weekend. Adventure #1 in the Black Forest – I’m clearly used to high-speed connections.
We went by the Muenster that evening on the way to dinner. It’s a huge church but was not a cathedral; it was built completely with funds from Freiburg citizens. It’s under reconstruction, so the lattice-work tower that’s supposed to be spectacular was covered up. We were inside about 5 minutes when Maeve said she had to go to the bathroom. We’re in the midst of toilet-training, so like good parents, we took off for the local department-store (Kaufhof) bathroom like a shot. I was pretty sick with a cold, so I got to hang out quietly with Maeve in the handicapped bathroom while Mike went grocery shopping. By the end of buying groceries, still no toilet action. Back on with the pants and on to dinner. After this, we pretty much decided we needed to keep wearing training pants while we were out and about. After checking out a couple of supposedly veggie-friendly places that only had cheese spaetzle on the menu, we had dinner at a Turkish restaurant called Harem that wasn’t far from the apartment. They had tons of veggie options and the food was great. We even had leftovers packed in tin foil for the next day’s hike.
Our plan was to do 5 day hikes, one each day, and spend a couple of evenings after Maeve’s nap wandering around Freiburg. I’d checked out a number of hiking books from the library and looked around at different websites and come up with several interesting hikes that met multiple criteria – nice looking hike, not too far from Freiburg, easily accessible on public transit, and less than 10K long. There were surprisingly many hikes that met these criteria.
Day one was a hike out from Kirchzarten. This cute village is 13 minutes outside Freiburg on the train, and their tourism page had a dozen half-day hikes starting from town. When we got to town, the train going back into Freiburg was waiting on the other track, and we had to wait for the other train to go to be able to cross the tracks into town. The train line Kirchzarten is on runs down to Titisee through a big gorge and is called the Hollentalbahn. It’s one track most of the way, so the trains periodically have to stop to let each other by. We later took the train to Hinterzarten and got to see the Hollental. For the Kirchzarten hike, we picked an 8 K hike that went up to a Waldfahrtkappelle, which is a forest chapel, and had good views. The chapel was cute and had a biergarten attached, which was closed the day we went by. Rats! We kind of missed the views. We kept coming to open spaces where we could tell we should be able to see something, and looked at the fog. The hike was nice, though. Through town, over fields, up a wooded hill and through some forest, back downhill and through fields (including some horses), and back to town. Much of what we did was that way since we were hiking from in-town, we saw fields then woods then fields etc. Maybe with a car you could get away from the towns, but I think there would still periodically be farms and fields.
Hiking day two we got off the rail line and did a one-way hike between St. Margen and St. Peter. Both are connected via bus to Kirchzarten, and both are cloister towns with big church compounds. We wanted to do this on a weekday because the bus service tapers off on the weekend. We first took the bus to St. Margen from Kirchzarten – the whole trip from Freiburg was a bit less than 1 hour. The first part of the ride was through valley towns, then we started curving around uphill through St. Peter and then further uphill to St. Margen. There, we got off and found the tourist info to get a map, which turned out to be helpful getting out of town.
We then checked out the cloister – the walls were white and yellow and it had a fountain Maeve liked. We walked the Panorama trail – mostly on the ridgeline between the two towns.
Periodically the trail was in the forest, and periodically we saw farmsteads with lots of cows. Maeve liked the cows. About halfway through, the fog started burning off apace and we had views, and the trees and landscape were beautiful. The trees were about at peak, so there was a stark contrast between the deciduous and evergreen colors.
We saw another forest chapel. We got there at the same time as the hiking tour group we’d been behind at the bakery in St. Margen when we were all picking up pretzels to provision our walk. The tour group had pulled out their flasks and wine glasses.
Near St. Peter we saw some buffalo-looking cows as well as some Grimm-brothers type mushrooms with bright red caps with white polka dots. I’d always assumed the pictures of that kind of mushrooms in fairy tales were made up.
Another noticeable trait of the farmsteads in the Black Forest is the solar panels. Many farms and houses had the whole roof covered with panels. There were several super-picturesque farmsteads, two-story houses a with wrap-around wooden balconies draped in geraniums with a well in the front and solar panels on the roof. We had a few minutes in St. Peter before the bus came so we walked up to the cloister church – was much more ornate than the church in St. Margen. I suppose St. Peter had more money.
Hiking day three we went to Schauinsland. This is the large mountain very near Freiburg. It’s not the highest mountain the black forest, but it’s very heavily used as it’s near the city. You can take the tram then a bus to the bottom where there’s a cable car to the top. We planned on doing a 6K hike at the top. The ride up was impressive – it takes about 20 minutes in the gondola. The trees were gorgeous most of the way up – at the very top they were a bit past peak but all the leaves hadn’t fallen yet. At the top of the cable car there was the usual biergarten and a playground.
We walked to the peak, which is about 1200m and about half a K from the cable car. There’s a tower on top, which Maeve walked up, and you can see from Freiburg to Feldberg – the highest mountain there. On good days, you’re supposed to be able to see the Alps. It wasn’t foggy, but we didn’t have that good visibility. We didn’t have a very good map of the trails around so we weren’t sure exactly what to hike. We went to the Englanderdenkmal – a memorial for a group of British kids who got stuck in a snowstorm and several of them died.
We then walked to Hofsgrund, a village on the back of the mountain. The whole area up there is being used as pasturage – cows were everywhere which Maeve really liked. It was all rolling hills and deep valleys and wonderful fall colors. After lunch on a bench and giving Maeve a while to commune with the cows, we just kept walking figuring we’d eventually see signs to get to the cable car.
We walked past several pastures that had ski lifts going up them – the cows must all be in barns in the winter and I bet the skiing is nice. We eventually hit the main road that goes up to the cable car – there’s a path along side it, and walked up from there. We took a detour at the top of a ski-lift where there was a flat area and tried to get Maeve to nap. Mike and I relaxed in the sun, and Maeve played with grass. Nothing going on the sleeping. So we just walked out and went home for a late nap.
That evening we did dinner in BrennNessel, which is called a student bar, but had great food. There was a line outside when we showed up at 5:58 for the 6 pm opening. It’s a bit behind the main train station in a newer area of town, and we’d have never gone there if the restaurant hadn’t been recommended as veggie-friendly. We got pumpkin soup and cheese spaetzle and spaghetti with gorgonzola sauce and it was all yummy. I think we were hungry, but it was also good to get simple but tasty food.
Hiking day four was Hinterzarten. One of the reasons I wanted to hike from there was an excuse to take the Hollentalbahn through the gorge. It’s one of the many mountain trains that run through the Black Forest, in this case from Freiburg to Titisee. The gorge is between Himmelreich and Hinterzarten. The gorge was pretty – in places we could see the river at the bottom, other places were tunnels or just views of sheer sides. There’s also a road through it and a hike, but the hike is 15K, too long for us with Maeve. It was interesting to see when the train and the road were not on the same level – the train went through many tunnels, and the road switch backed at the bottom end to leave the gorge.
In Hinterzarten, we were doing the Ravennaschluct hike, a hike up the gorge of the Ravenna creek. Heading out of town, we walked on the Heimatpfad, which is a learning path about Black Forest history and culture. The first part went through the Loeffeltal, the spoon valley, paralleling the railroad tracks heading back to the Hollental. It was called the Loeffeltal because there were lots of spoon smiths there. Now there are several mills that have been reconstructed with pretty long open pipes carrying the water from the river to the top of the wheel. Most of the wheels seem to have been connected to saw mills – at the foot of the Ravenna valley trail there was an information board about how the sawmill technology changed in the 19th century. We saw three or four during the hike, often with multiple sluice gates starting 10s of meters from the mill. The walk down the spoon valley to the bottom of the Ravenna gorge was pretty with farmsteads, small waterfalls, the river, the mills, and the train tracks just visible uphill through the woods. We then walked through a more developed area around the highway where there is a hotel. On the street to the hotel, we passed these really weird electrical poles – it turns out we were still on the history learning path and there were a half-dozen poles as part of a recreation of an old telegraph line.
The Ravenna gorge hike was a bit more crowded –about half way up, Maeve decided she no longer wanted to be in the backpack so we kept getting passed by small groups and a couple of bigger hiking tour groups. We’d seen some tour groups earlier in the week on the St. Margen-St. Peter hike, and we saw several in the Ravenna gorge. The gorge was beautiful. The creek flowed pretty steeply downhill. At the bottom, we passed under the huge stone arches supporting the railroad tracks. Two minutes further in were the old stone walls that had been used to support the previous railroad line. Then the gorge got narrower, with the trail using a fair number of wooden bridges crossing from one side to the other and several places where we ascended on stairs. The trees and light were wonderful. Half way up we passed a mill that is sometimes used for historical enactments of grinding grain. There Maeve decided to get out of the pack and walk the rest of the way up. This slowed our pace considerably, but she could do it. At the top was a village called Breitnau, part of the town of Hinterzarten. From there, there was a well-travelled path which was part of a long-distance hiking trail to take back into Hinterzarten. We ate lunch at the top of a hill with a view over pastures and to our left the ski jumps – Hinterzarten is apparently the place to ski jump in Germany.
That evening, we managed to go back to the Muenster and check out the inside. They were preparing for a concert by the Jr. college of music which was happening at 5:30, including a Gregorian chant and other church music. We decided to miss it and get dinner instead. We walked to what was supposed to be a Persian restaurant which was outside the medieval core, but was now an Indian restaurant, again with good veggie options, but not open until 6pm. So we went to option #2, a potato restaurant called Kartoffelhaus. There’s also a potato restaurant in Saarbruecken which is veggie-friendly, so maybe this is a German trend. Anyway, we sat outside on their patio and the food was great. Yummy salads, good bread, and tasty potatoes – Mike got his with Raclette and I got mine with Spinach. We had some issues at the table, particularly with spillage of Maeve’s orange juice/mineral water mix (orangeshorle), but managed to stay mostly dry and not too sticky. The Kartoffelhaus and BrennNessel were the best veggie food we had in Freiburg. Baden-Württemberg is not known for its veggie cuisine, and for the size of city, Freiburg had very few veggie-friendly options.
Our last day in Freiburg we had to take the train at noon, so we’d planned to do a short hike up Schlossberg, the hill right outside the medieval core where the old castle had been. There’s now nothing left of the castle but a few ramparts here and there, and there is an observation tower on top. So we walked out of town, past the second remaining tower from the old city wall, and 2 minutes later were on the path up the hill. The path first went behind houses and past some construction and then was out of the city though not far from the noise.
We walked past a few vineyards, which Maeve really liked as she’s a fan of grapes. There were purple grapes still on the vines, although some grape leaves were already turning red. Schlossberg goes up about 400 meters above the city, and only the bottom part is good for grapes, but it really seems amazing that 5 minutes out of town you’re in a vineyard and 10 minutes past that in the woods uphill.
About half way up is a road that runs around the mountain that was built around the turn of the 20th century when the Schlossberg was rehabilitated as a relaxation spot near the city. At the front of the hill, facing downtown, there is a big gun battery that has great views of downtown – we could see the weekly farmers market in the square beside the Muenster. We snacked there.
From there, we headed uphill to the observation tower at the top. It was very cool, as the supports were massive tree trunks. The view was good; we could supposedly see Schauinsland but we weren’t sure which mountain it was. And you could feel the tower sway. Mike took Maeve to the crow’s nest up top while I hung out on the big platform. The trees again were just beautiful.
As usual, I was concerned about time so we headed straight down from the tower, past a second brick tower lower down that’s closed off, and straight to the city. We’d gone up a round-about route, but it took less than 30 minutes to descend and hit the city gate. From there, we headed to the apartment to pay, then the train station and the train ride home. Maeve did well and got down for a late nap in Saarbrücken.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Photos of Maeve from Desiree Koh
These are from when we were in Seattle, and were walking around the Seattle Center/Space Needle area on July 22, 2008
The first series is of Maeve "jumping." At that time, jumping pretty much involved crouching and standing up, with little or no feet leaving the ground. Since then, she's learned to jump when holding something with her hand, like the back of the couch, which she does and yells "saltas" (you jump) in Spanish. She was very proud of herself for jumping.
The second series is of Maeve sitting on flying fish and pig sculptures.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Gyor and Budapest, August 3-11, 2008
View of Budapest from Gellert Hill
On our way to Budapest, we stopped for a day in Gyor, a city in NW Hungary on the main train route from Vienna to Budapest. It’s a mostly industrial center, with a small but quaint old center city and a very big thermal bath complex. We stayed at a pension near the baths, which were on the other side of the river from downtown. We walked from the train station – it should have been about 1K, but we got a bit lost and had to ask for directions. There was not an overabundance of street signs. Lesson learned – take a taxi the first time in a new town and afterwards hoof it. We found the pension, but couldn’t get into our room until 1, and had no baby bed. No worries – Maeve had been climbing out of her travel bed all week in Vienna and falling asleep on the floor. So we stored our luggage and headed into town to wander for a couple of hours and get lunch.
We walked across the bridge into town and ran straight into a children’s festival. There were kids on motorized play tractors, and a put-put course laid out on the bridge. There were kids everywhere. We got a golf stick and Maeve played a hole or two. There was also a registration booth – I thought maybe you had to register, and we had no Hungarian money, so we wandered through more games in the square at the end of the bridge with more festival and an old yellow church and convent building, past booths selling stuff on the main street into the center city, and found an ATM. We then went back to the booth and tried to register – with no luck. No one spoke English, German, Spanish or French. At that point, we decided we’d tried and Maeve should just play. So she blew bubbles, hopped around on some cushions and played go fish. I later tried to register at another booth. Again the workers couldn’t help, but a mom in line explained that it was a free festival – you brought a photo of your kid smiling and they got an armband, but registration wasn’t necessary. There was also a fairy-tale area where the kids got colored cards and had to complete tasks like fishing, walking blindfolded, bean bag toss etc. All of this was very confusing to us, as nothing and nobody spoke English or German. We gave up trying other languages. After playing a bit, we went walking to the main square, where they had inflatable jumping stages set up, with long links of kids waiting to jump. There was a restaurant on the square with info in German and English, and after a bit more wandering around looking for eatables we could decipher, we ate there. At that point we were tired and sunburnt, and the food was very heavy. We quickly learned that Hungarian food is fried – we had some soup (Hungarian meals start with soup) and fried cheese. Not great. We called it a morning and went back to the hotel.
Maeve napped in the bathroom floor on a bedspread as the pension had only 1 travel bed and it was being used. Like many other places in Europe, we had a double bed but each of us had our own comforter. So Maeve got one of them for a mattress. We had access to communal bathrooms in the hall if we needed it, so it was better to have her in the bathroom and us be able to read and move around in the room. After nap, we lotioned up with sunscreen and headed out to explore a bit more. We walked along the river and past the cathedral. Coming back from lunch, the Children’s Festival was closing up, but when we got back out, it was going again. There was an island in the middle of the river which also had activities like making headbands etc, as well as a toddler playfield with inflatable pools of water and a big indoor-outdoor carpet covered with blocks, cars, and other toys. After dinner on a park bench, we settled down there to play. All in all, we walked around town but mostly just enjoyed the festival.
That night at the pension, we hadn’t gotten any towels or an extra bedspread, so I went down the hall and picked some extras up from a neighboring room that wasn’t rented out. That way Maeve had a mattress and I had a blanket. We were starting to realize why a pension isn’t a hotel. The next morning, we were up and ready to eat before breakfast was really out. The pension was billed as a health resort, and seemed to cater to people going to the mineral baths nearby. For example, all rooms were non-smoking, and there were so many smokers in Hungary, this was certainly a deliberate health-oriented decision. But the woman laying out breakfast was smoking like a chimney as she did it – so I paid and got breakfast for Maeve while Mike took her outside to avoid the smoke. Very strange. Later the employee moved her ashtray away from the breakfast area and into the office.
By this time, we’d noticed a couple of things about Hungary. First we didn’t speak the language. I was used to being able to communicate at least a little all over Europe. In Hungary, sometimes English worked, sometimes German (at the pension), and sometimes there was just total incomprehension. It’s one of the legacies of Hungary’s former isolation from Western Europe and felt very weird. We didn’t go to many museums, but the ones we went to were labeled in English, but off the beaten tourist track it was less sure to be able to communicate. Second, families don’t use strollers as much in Hungary as Germany. At the festival in Gyor, small kids were mostly in strollers – some in arms, and a few in slings, but many, many toddlers were walking. Some were on shoulders. They would all be in strollers in Germany. We had Maeve in and out of a stroller, but we’re ambivalent stroller users at best so really noticed the difference. Third, in Hungary, everybody smoked. We managed to avoid the worst of it, but had to make strategic decisions, particularly at restaurants, to not sit near smokers. Fourth, Hungarian food is heavy on the breaded and fried in grease variety of main courses. Hungarian cuisine was not our favorite. Luckily there were several veggie restaurants in Budapest and we ate a fair amount of Indian food and falafel. But it’s not a veggie-friendly country and veggie restaurants often had shorter hours (maybe only open for lunch), and some restaurants that guidebooks or web sites said had veggie options actually only had 1 thing without meat on the menu.
Fifth, Hungarians love kids. Especially in contrast to Germany, which isn’t kid-phobic but certainly isn’t kid-friendly. There are more kids in Hungary, and they seem to be more communally looked after. We ran into 2 children’s festivals (in Gyor and a small one in a park near our apartment in Budapest). Parents carry their kids around with them wherever they go. We ate dinner at a health-food store/veggie diner that had 1 veggie option and 3 tables on the street. A young woman was running the store and some kind of younger relation (son/brother) that was about 5 kept running into the store, on the sidewalk, and into the bar next door, which presumably was owned by the same family. Maeve enjoyed watching him play moving water bottles in the store. This is something you’d never see in Germany, or the States for that matter. There are also tons of neighborhood pocket parks, all with a water fountains, benches for sitting, and kid’s play equipment, including toddler and regular swings. The kids play with one another differently than in Germany. There’s still a fair amount of the bigger kids taking over equipment, but there’s also a lot of 6-year-olds who help their 3-year-old siblings play on equipment. There is also much closer parental/older sibling supervision of the littler kids, who are actively encouraged to explore the park instead of sitting in the sandbox while their parents sit on a nearby bench. And when a couple of little kids are on equipment, the big kids wait or play by helping the littler kids. For example, there was a very popular rope merry-go-round/climbing structure on the park near our apartment in Budapest and when Maeve and another toddler were on it, the big kids wanted it, but several joined in pushing the little kids gently until they were done and the big kids could get on and go fast. I’m not so sure how playgrounds work in the US, but I’d bet their law of the jungle is somewhere between Hungary and Germany.
On to Budapest. We spent a lot of time in Budapest just wandering around. Our apartment complex was centrally located, inside the ring road around downtown Pest (the flat side of the Danube), so public transit to everywhere was very convenient and there was a fair amount of things to see within walking distance. Our first morning we went to see the Parliament building on the banks of the Danube. It was partly under renovation. We later found out that less than 20% of the building is used by the parliament, and it was build of sandstone, which is a soft stone and continually erodes. Therefore, part of the building is always under construction. But it still looks like a cool drip-sandcastle on the banks of the Danube. We walked past the Agriculture ministry, checking out the giant metal marbles that mark where the building got hit by gunfire in the uprising in 1956. We then played a while on a bridge/sculpture of Nagy, who was president at the time and got deposed by the Russians when a more orthodox government was put in place. Afterwards, we found an Indian veggie restaurant in the basement of a nearby building and ate lunch. On our walk back to the subway, we went by St. Stephen’s church, the biggest church in Hungary. It was built in the early 20th century, and supposedly houses a relic, the saint’s right hand. The relic chapel was closed so we didn’t see it. The interior was Byzantine-influenced, with pictures of saints and angles on gold backgrounds.
(detail of St. Stephen's Church)
We went back to our hotel and got into the room a bit early. We’d asked to get in before 2, the regular check-in time, so Maeve could nap. They got us in, but the room wasn’t cleaned, so we dumped our luggage and went out in the hall for another 30 minutes. We got Maeve down, and later realized that the room didn’t have wireless. So the next day, we were moved to another room that supposedly did have wireless. It was intermittent, and Mike ended up doing most of his work that week sitting in the hallway near the central staircase where the wireless was strong.
The next day we headed across the river to Buda and up castle hill, where the main fortifications were and the Hapsburgs ruled the country. Before them, the Hungarian monarchs ruled from there and the cathedral is there. We first walked a bit along the Buda side of the Danube to get to the cable car to go up the hill. The cable car was built to take workers up the hill – scribes and others who worked for the government ministries up there. It’s about a 2 minute ride – not that exciting and Maeve wasn’t old enough to think it was cool. It lets you out at one end of the hill, in front of the royal palace which is now museums and the national archives. There was a great view of Pest. From there, we walked over to the Cathedral, which we paid to duck into because it was raining. It had a very dark interior, not buying into the gothic esthetic of high and light at all. There were a number of informational signs around that included English, so we learned, for example, that all the ratty flags hanging up in the central apse were from noble families of Hungary. Maeve mostly just enjoyed running in and out of the columns supporting the pulpit. We didn’t think the interior of the cathedral was particularly pretty, but it was very different, and we were glad we saw it. Behind the cathedral, facing the river is the Fisherman’s bastion, not really much of a defensive work, that has great views of Pest. As a break from the drizzle, we went to a nearby coffee shop and got drinks and snacks. Maeve, as usual, wanted chocolate so we had a long discussion with the servers about what confections didn’t have nuts. Yummy. When we got out, we walked along the back side of castle hill to see the views of the Buda hills. It was mostly just city, both in the spaces between the hills and crawling up the hillsides. From there, we walked through the rest of the hill and down to Muskova Ter, the main transportation hub in Buda that’s at the foot of the hill.
From there, we went to lunch at a veggie fast-food buffet. It was right off the main pedestrian tourist drag, Vaci Utica, but Google maps hadn’t mapped it correctly, so we walked a bit to find it. From there, over to Deak Ter and home for nap. Deak Ter (Ter means square in Hungarian) is nothing special, but we kept walking through there as it’s where the 3 metro lines cross and is therefore a big transportation hub.
Mid-week we took a day trip out to Szentendre, a town about 20K outside of Budapest at the end of a commuter rail line. We’d wanted to go by boat to spend some more time on the Danube, but the boat times would have made napping impossible, so we took the commuter rail, which ran a lot and only took 45 minutes. The town has a long history of orthodox Christians and some nice churches as well as an open-air living historical village outside town. Our plan was to hit the village early and then the churches when they opened an hour later. This did not quite work out. When we got to Szentendre, it was about 9 o’clock and we knew the open-air museum opened then and what bus to take out there. But a nice gentleman also buying tickets for the bus was able to translate for the ticket seller – there was no bus for 2 hours and you couldn’t buy the tickets more than an hour before the bus so she couldn’t help us right then. So we had to decide whether to wander around town or take a taxi. Taxi it was, and very much worth it.
T he open-air museum had houses, stores, churches, barns and in some cases, completely reconstructed neighborhoods, from towns in different areas of Hungary. Our first stop past the entrance gate, where we did remember to ask what times the buses left, was a linen dying shop. It was a big barn where they had rooms to cook the linen in indigo, which they imported from elsewhere, and then had a huge barn with big rollers, as in large-barn –sized, where they ironed it mechanically. And they guide there spoke English so could explain the mechanisms. Next stop was the local bakery where we bought some pastries and stopped for Maeve to snack on yogert. Next to the windmill was a pottery making workshop and a class where people were learning to cane chairs. The windmill was across from a play area – Maeve hung out there while Mike and I took turns going to the windmill. The guide there was more typical – no English and a very little German. I managed to figure out that the big screw-machines were to change the coarseness of the grind – the guide didn’t really know the words for this in German, but we somehow communicated what made the flour bigger or smaller.
We walked through several other village areas, after deciding to miss the first bus back and just spend the whole morning at the museum. There was a tiny church and a house where they had weaving games for kids. Most of the houses were farm-houses with thatched roves, wells with counter-weighted levels to get up the water, barns, pigsties etc. A fair number of the houses had activities for kids, but Maeve was too little for most. We passed by another house where they were getting ready to make corn pancakes on a wooden stove. We communicated enough in German to figure out the demonstration was starting in 20 minutes, so we wandered a bit more, checked out some pigsties, apple trees, and beehives, and hit the bathrooms before coming back. Maeve got to make several pancakes, rolling them out and watching them puff up on the wooden stove. The fire was definitely the coolest part. They were served with very garlicy butter and sour cream. Yummy. When Maeve was about finished another little girl came in and rolled out pancakes, and then a whole troop of kids. Their guide was translating between Hungarian and English, and we found out that they had arranged the demonstration for their group. So we had just lucked out.
We ate our picnic lunch in the shade of the windmill – by this point I was getting very sun-phobic as we’d been out in the sun all morning. Then we went to hang out at the barnyard – saw the ducks, sheep, cows, horses, pigs, goats, and chickens. This was a big hit with Maeve.
After lunch we checked out another area of the museum after walking through the picnic area and big playground area. The whole museum was worth a day and a great place for kids, but it was definitely helpful to speak some German and if we’d known Hungarian we could have had a lot more interpretation and better understood what we were seeing. On the way out, we had some confusion about how to find the bus – you had to walk out to the main road – but the woman at the front ticket office was extremely helpful despite our communication difficulties. We’d also left our credit card there, and got it back from her. Yikes! Thank goodness there was one main entrance. From the park, we just took the bus into town and then the next train back to Budapest as it was already quite late and way past nap time. So we missed the churches, but had a good day.
I think that evening we started our relationship with the veggie hummus joint a couple of blocks from our apartment. We ended up getting falafel and hummus there a couple of times – cheap, quick, nearby, and yummy.
One morning we walked around on Andrassy Ut, the Hungarian response to Paris’s boulevards. We walked past the opera, and Maeve enjoyed climbing on the Spynxes. It’s art-deco, and I liked the small details, like the colored tiles on the ceiling of the porch in front of the main entrance. But the overall impression was big and bulky. Mike didn’t think the building was that beautiful. We then went to the House of Terror, a museum in a building that was used by both the Nazis and Communist governments for security. The museum was very impressionistic – with excellent video footage in several rooms (with English subtitles) and good English explanations on a paper you could pick up in each room. I ended up mostly going from room to room, glancing around to set the scene, and sitting to read the info on the sheet. There was some information about the Nazis and the Nazi-sympathetic government, but Mike and I had to keep talking to one another to figure out the general timeline. I could have used more overview, but basically I understood that the Nazis were never in power in Hungary, but they were a large voting block and the whole government was Nazi-sympathetic and allied with the Axis powers, a term coined by a Hungarian but that I didn’t know also included Hungary. For most of WWII, the Jews, although badly discriminated against, were not actually sent to concentration camps. Only in the last months of the war when Germany invaded Hungary to get more assistance for “the final push”, were the Jewish Hungarians rounded up, shipped off, and systematically killed. Which explains why Budapest still has a vibrant Jewish community – not everyone got killed off. Still not a pretty story.
Most of the museum was on the Communist Era – one of the critiques of the museum was that it focused more on Communism that the Nazi years, and that was true. There was information about how the secret services were built, informants, dealing with the uprising in 1956 etc. People lived in fear of the state police. Even the man that founded the secret police was later deposed and killed as he had Jewish heritage – this was under the Communists who were apparently also very anti-Semitic. In the basement was a reconstruction of cells from other security buildings.
One afternoon, we took a trip to the Ernst museum. This museum showcases modern art, and is in an art-deco palace off Kiraly Utica, walking distance from our apartment. The museum was named after the former owner of the house. We went because of the name, and got in for free because their computer was down. The house was interesting, with some stained glass windows and sculptural elements you could see as you walked up to the exhibition space on the 1st floor. The rest of the building must be apartments. The exhibition was of modern Hungarian art – the best piece was a sculpture than ran behind the walls between two rooms – so all you could see was little pieces of wood that were leading into a dark room. It turns out that you could climb on the sculpture, most of which was in a room with no windows and one light from below, so you could see the precarious scaffolding that was holding up the wood you were standing on near the ceiling. Needless to say, Maeve loved walking on this, and Mike and I alternatively hung out with her in the dark room, coming out, and going back, while the other looked around.
We spent one morning in the Museum of Fine arts on Hosok Tere. This square is at the entrance to the biggest city park, at the end of a huge boulevard. We first wandered around the square and took lots of pictures of the monumental statues. This is where Hungarians have major rallies, kind of like the mall in Washington, when they want to protest or celebrate. No one was there at 8:30. We then walked around the park, which is huge. Maeve looked at ducks, played in a playground, and we walked through a castle that’s now a museum. We came out of the park to eat a snack before heading into the museum at 10 – and the square was transformed, teeming with tourists stepping in and out of charter buses. The museum of Fine Arts is an impressive building. We mostly just saw the Spanish paintings – left over from the Hapsburgs who ruled both Hungary and Spain. It’s an impressive collection.
That afternoon we did a bit of a walking tour from our apartment to look at some art deco buildings. One stop was the Orthodox Synagogue, which was build on a bend in the road. The building itself was rather austere. We walked past the trade school, again very austere with huge owls looking down from the second story. We walked past the Guttenburg apartment block, which was more lighthearted but in need of restoration. Our last stop was the Museum of Applied Arts, which was stunning. The tile work outside, the atrium inside, the stained glass – just a beautiful building. After our walk, we ate dinner at the whole foods store/restaurant where Maeve enjoyed watching the little boy play.
On Saturday, we had some kind of plan that probably involved walking or a museum. But we were up early and ready to get out hours before a museum was open and it was lightly drizzling, so we decided to go to the baths. Budapest is full of mineral baths and Turkish baths. There’s a big baths complex in the middle of the city park, called Szechenyi Furdo, and we’d decided to go there, in large part because it’s mixed, so we could all bathe together. After changing clothes and figuring out how to lock the locker with some non-verbal help from the Hungarian senior citizens who were changing back into street clothes after their morning medicinal, Maeve and I found Mike outside in the drizzle waiting for us next to 3 huge outdoor pools. They were at varying temperatures from 28 to 32 to 36-38 (which is body temperature) and were pretty well used, not over-full, but not empty of mostly middle-aged or older people lounging. One pool was for swimming. And there were a few families there. We hung out mostly in the warmest pool, with a little time in the middle temp one.
About swimming pools in Germany, and apparently in Hungary: they’re a big deal. Many of the pools in Germany are part of complexes that have indoor and outdoor areas, whirlpools, jets, big and little slides etc. They’re basically water parks. The outdoor pool in Saarbruecken has a small kiddie pool, a big lounge/play pool with several sides ramping down for small children, small and big slides, water jet/shower streams, a section with barca loungers submerged to 1 ft depth etc. As well as an Olympic sized pool farther back in the complex for actually swimming. The baths in Gyor were mineral ones - mineral baths seem a big draw in Hungary. But from what we could see from outside, in addition to whatever indoor facilities they had, they also had an outdoor water park. The city baths in Budapest were less of a water park – only 3 outdoor pools, with some Jacuzzi jets, a few shower massages, and one whirlpool area, in addition to the pool with lanes for swimming. And they were all heated with mineral water. The indoor areas had some rooms for aquatic therapy and then baths of varying temperatures with and without minerals for medicinal soaks.
Maeve is much better in the water this summer, as long as she isn’t cold. She still very much wants to be in arms as we’re moving around the pool, but when we’re at the side she likes to jump from the stair into our arms, or “swim” as we hand her off between us. After swimming a bit outdoors, we explored the indoor pools and hung out in one for a few minutes. It definitely smelled like minerals. 2 hours into the experience, we headed home exhausted to put on more clothes as the temperature hadn’t warmed up to shorts weather in the drizzle.
For lunch, we’d planned a quick excursion to a café in the Goethe Institute that supposedly had vegetarian food. There was one not very appealing noodle dish. So we decided not to eat there and went in search of the other nearby veggie restaurants. We went walking again down Vaci U, the main pedestrian street that’s full of tourists. We ran into some construction – Budapest is putting in a fourth subway line and every once in a while you run into construction. Then we went to the first place – under new management and no longer veggie. Second place – not open. Third place, a bio store with small buffet was open but no buffet on weekends. Fourth place – closed for Saturday. At this point, our easy morning had turned into an exhausting forced march around town to find food. We ended up going to a bakery near Deak Ter on the way home. There are not many veg options around.
That afternoon, we had tickets to do a sight-seeing cruise on the Danube. So we got Maeve up early and headed out. The cruise was great – they had headphone with explanations in many languages – Buda was a male voice and Pest a female so it was easy to know which side to look on. By that point, we’d seen most things already but learned more – for example that there was a monastery inside Gellert Hill, when the bridges were built linking the two sides, and that the Parliament building is continually under reconstruction. We had an hour break on Margaret Island – an island in the middle of the Danube that’s got a bath, a couple of hotels, and otherwise is park, no cars allowed. There was an optional guided tour, and we were the only ones that took it. We saw the oldest church on the island, and the remains of a Dominican convent which was where Princess Margaret (hence Margaret island) lived and was buried. There is also tons of park, some paths lined with sculptures of Hungarian artists, and a small Japanese garden. A popular form of transportation is multi-person bikes – the even have little ones for kids, or big ones for 4 people and seats for 2 kids on the front. When we went back to the boat, we were told that there was a bomb threat on Margaret bridge, and the boat couldn’t take us back to downtown. So we picnicked dinner on the island amid several bridal shoots, and walked off another bridge to the metro.
On our last day in Budapest, we had an easy morning and hiked up Gellert Hill, the second main hill in Buda that faces the river. In the afternoon, there was a festival going on on the Chain Bridge, and we walked there from Deak Ter. The festival was the usual arts and crafts with several music stages without anywhere to really sit and listen and lots of meaty food. Maeve liked listening to music, watching the boats on the river, and watching the guys selling devil’s sticks. On the way back to Deak Ter, we had to pass through a park which was heavily used by skateboarders and a latin dance practice group. We watched for a bit as Maeve watched a fountain. We were too late to re-visit a nearby veggie restaurant, which closed at 6pm, so we just went to an Indian place around the corner from our hotel. The food was super yummy but spicy!
Monday was heading home – flight from Budapest to Frankfurt Hahn and then a bus to Saarbruecken. We’d called to schedule an airport pickup, which didn’t come, so we took the subway. It took about an hour – subway to Deak Ter, change lines to end of line, then bus to airport, but was not a problem. The public transit in Budapest is really quite good. We’d never flown to Hahn before – it’s just for low-cost airlines and basically a hub for Ryanair, which we flew. Getting back wasn’t too bad – we had to wait about an hour for the bus, which turned out to be a mini-bus, at which point I was really hoping Maeve wouldn’t get car sick, and was dreaming that maybe she’d take a nap. We ate an early dinner before the bus, passed Maeve back and forth, working hard to keep her entertained and seated on the bus, and got home just in time for bed. Good to be home.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Vienna blog (Maeve on the tram in Vienna)
We had 3 weeks of vacation this summer, as Maeve’s daycare had time off. We spent the first week (July 21-26) in Seattle. Mike had a conference, and I was looking at housing and daycares as we’re thinking of moving there. So that was work. But afterwards, we had 2 weeks of vacation and spent a week each in Vienna and Budapest.
From Seattle we flew to Frankfurt and then took a train to Vienna – a long travel day. Maeve did well on the flights, but it would be nice if she’d sleep more. The longer she’s up, the more she has to be walked around the plane and entertained, so Mike and I didn’t get much rest. She slept for about 3 hours on the floor of the train under our feet – it was great.
The Vienna weather was very nice – mid 80’s. We were often hot and tired from the heat, which just goes to show how quickly you can acclimate to cold and disacclimate to heat. We slathered on the sun-tan lotion and tried, somewhat successfully, not to get burnt.
One of the first days there, we did a walking tour of downtown offered through the tourist info center. It was great – took us by lots of historical plaques where Mozart or other luminaries used to live, and we went through several interior courtyards off the Blutgasse (blood alley). This is a medieval section of downtown near the cathedral with the complex for the Knights Templar’s (still in use with about a dozen monks living there) and other old buildings. We’d never have found that on our own. In the early 20th century, there was a debate about whether or not to tear all these old buildings down and build new ones with better sanitation (i.e. running water and toilets) or renovate. The city council ended up establishing a fund to help landlords renovate, which is still in operation to day, and the buildings were kept.
Another morning we decided to go to the Albertina, a museum that’s part of the Hofburg, the Hapsburg’s imperial palace that takes up a huge part of downtown and backs onto the Ring – a boulevard encircling downtown that was built in the 1800’s when they tore down the medieval walls and fortifications. The day before we’d seen the installation of an outdoor sculpture exhibit on the plaza fronting the Albertina. We were up and out a bit before the museum was going to open, so we decided to take a trolley tour around the ring. A couple of trams follow the ring all the way around, so we hopped one and took it around. We started at Schottentor, which is where the tram from our apartment (in the outer part of Vienna at Hernals, a 20 minute tram ride into town) dropped us off. The first part of the ring with the University, Rathaus, Volkstheater, Parliament, Opera, and tons of parks is very monumental. All this was built on a grand scale when they created the ring. Later on were more palaces and parks. Near the river and the ride back to Schottentor was less impressive.
The Albertina had 2 exhibits going, one on Impressionism and one on Paul Klee, plus their permanent exhibit which is in the royal apartments. They have a massive collection, but only a small part of it is on display. We thought we’d missed the main museum, but the royal apartments are it – they just have very selected works on display. By the time we got there, we were pretty much wiped out, and I actually didn’t pay much attention to the art on the walls. I was more interested in checking out the apartments and running after Maeve, who loved the long hallways as all the rooms opened in a straight line and she could run a long way.
The 2 temporary exhibits, which was saw first, were great. They mixed works from the Albertina’s collection and things they borrowed. Maeve is now old enough that you can talk with her about the art, what colors there are, if there are people or boats or chairs or water or trees etc. She’ll point out the paintings she wants to look at and then we talk about them. It’s slow going, but interactive. So you get to look at things while entertaining her, a major improvement over just having her run around and climb on benches and whoever’s with her sees nothing. We still switch off, one going faster and one with her, but it works well. I think the impressionist work was very good for this – it’s very approachable and relatively realistic. The Paul Klee didn’t work quite as well, and she was tireder by then. In the apartments, she just wanted to run. After the Albertina, we walked through some of Hofburg to find the cantina, which had a veggie option, and was cheap at about 7 Euros each. On the way there, we passed the Butterfly house. Maeve was very psyched about this, and like good parents, we took her there after lunch. It was extremely hot and humid, but butterflies were flying all around, there were several terrariums with butterflies in various stages of pupation, and there were Maeve-level fishtanks. All in all a winner for the 2 year old set.
I would recommend the Albertina. It was small enough to do without getting exhausted, even for us, and had excellent art. We were interested in going to Belvedere also, another place/art museum, which has all the art deco work, but didn’t make it there. We also didn’t make it to any of the museums in the new Museum Quarter, right outside the ring. We have to be selective with Maeve, and the Albertina was a good choice.
One day we took a whole-day trip to Melk. You can get a package from the Austrian train to take a train to Melk, do a 2 hour Danube cruise downriver to Krems, and take a train back to Vienna. This was my favorite day in Austria. We got up early, took packed lunch and plenty of food - sandwiches, yogurt, fruit, crackers, dried fruit etc and hopped the train in the Westbahnhof. Maeve likes looking for windmills, corn, sunflowers, trees, and hay. Also cows and other livestock when it’s around. She also likes walking up and down the train. The ride to Melk is about 90 minutes, and from Krems back a little over an hour – we tend to pick day trips with travel times significantly less than 2 hours. Melk is all about the Benedictine monastery. From the train station you walk 2 minutes into town and see this yellow enormous structure covering the top of the hill towering over the town. The town’s main street just caters to tourists – Melk is on a main long-distance Danube biking trail and there were tons of bike tours as well as cruise ships, bus tours etc. We also saw several people from our AM train on the boat and return train – so that package was also frequently used.
It’s a five minute walk uphill to the monastery which has huge gardens outside the gates which we didn’t really have time to see much of. We were there in time for the morning English tour. We walked through the first courtyard with a fountain and koi (Maeve likes fish and can say both pez and koi) and up into a museum. The museum was off the long corridor, the longest side of the monastery, and presented history of the Benedictines and the monastery. The monastery was founded by the ruling house of Austria before the Hapsburgs, over 900 years ago. The buildings were completely redone by an Abbot about 200 years ago – the original buildings were razed and this impressive fortress complex was built on the site. It really makes you realize that these were princes of the church with massive wealth and resources at hand. The view from the balcony over an arm of the Danube was magnificent. The library was also interesting – trompe d’oeil ceiling and books floor to ceiling with a number of concealed doors that lead to alcoves behind the shelves where there were windows and better light for reading.
There was a little walk down the Danube to the boat dock. The boat was a river cruiser, and we got a spot on the upper deck in the shade, with a great view of the refreshment stand. We were trying to stay out of the sun and out of the cigarette smoke. We ended up spending most of the trip in front of the covered section in the shade of the roof behind the pilot’s house. The Danube was just beautiful, sometimes steep hillsides with half ruined castles sitting in craggy outcroppings, other times gentler slopes covered with vineyards, other times valleys with villages nestled between fields. There was also plenty of business on the river to keep Maeve busy looking around: other boats, people swimming, buoys, ducks etc.
The train ride home from Krems was uneventful. Catching the train was a trick – we looked at our ticket, which said we went from Krems school, but didn’t understand where that was. We asked boat personnel, also clueless. So we set out to walk to Krems main train station. About half way there, we realized we had about 5 minutes or we’d miss our train. I had Maeve asleep in the sling on my back by this point, but we transferred her to Mike and woke her up and I got the backpack and we started running, maybe 6 blocks or more. We got there in plenty of time as the train was a few minutes late. It turns out that there was a local train from the Krems school, which is near the dock, that went to the main train station and there you switched for the train to Vienna. Oh well. We made the train and Maeve slept for maybe 5 minutes that day.
Food in Vienna was generally good. There were tons of vegetarian restaurants listed on HappyCow.com, and when we bought a city guide, it had some more options. We went to one or two that weren’t good. These were the typical Viennese food, which was breaded, fried, oil-swamped and salty. But the cafes, Chinese, neuveau cuisine etc veg options were all good. Our favorite restaurant was Wrenkh, between Stephansplatz and the river. We ate there after we did the walking tour. The tour left us off at the old Jesuit University, and we walked past the Hoher Markt, where there were tons of people milling around. They’d stopped to look at the Ankeruhr, a clock that had a procession of people in very fancy clothes representing each hour every day at noon. So we got to watch that, and then headed to Wrenkh, which was not oil-drenched and very flavorful veggie food.
We spent one day at Schoenbrun castle. We paid to go in the maze, and got detoured on the way there by a really nice playground. Each section of the playground had a different focus, like musical instruments, mirrors, a maze, or water. The neatest equipment was a huge bird that you could climb up a rope net to, sit in, and push your legs off the netting to make the wings moved. Maeve enjoyed sitting up there with her Mike for a while. Later, we had some issues with the maze, but eventually found our way to the middle.
There was a huge fountain behind the castle, near the maze, that was off when we first got there. By 10 AM the Neptune fountain was going, spraying water high in the air, halfway between the castle and the Gloriette, which was set at the top of a hill. We walked up the hill to the Gloriette to get good views of the castle grounds and Vienna. The whole gardens were very impressive and we could have spent the whole day, not just the morning there. We didn’t bother to go in the castle to see the apartments, but they’re also supposed to be rather luxurious.
One morning we went to see the Hundertwasserhaus, an apartment block in the art deco style put up by Vienna’s answer to Gaudi, Hundertwasser. There’s the apartment block, a shopping center next door, and a few blocks down a museum. Maeve liked the fountain. The building was interesting, mostly because there were plants growing off lots of the balconies and looked very organic.
Most afternoons we just took long naps and then went out to dinner, getting over jetlag. I wanted to try some Vienese café food, but it was a bit tricky finding ones that served veggie options. We went to one, Café Florienhof, in Josefstadt, right outside the ring, and the food was yummy. The weather was also beautiful, and we were always looking to sit outside. But there are a lot of smokers in Vienna, and they often (but not always) can’t sit inside, so outside was an iffy choice if we wanted to stay away from the smoke. On the way back to our train, we passed the house where Kurt Goedel lived as a student. Mike took a picture.
Towards the end of the week we started planning afternoon excursions. One day we went to the Wienerwald to do a hike. I love saying Wienerwald – it’s the forest just outside of town that actually belongs to the city and is very heavily used for recreation. We took a bus from Ottakring S-Bahn station up to the forest. We actually took the wrong bus – we couldn’t find the bus we were supposed to take so took another one that went to the same stop a different way. We walked from the bus stop up to a forest tower. The views were amazing – it was mildly cloudy and we were still way over the trees, could see villages several ridges over and see the city. On a fair day, you’re supposed to be able to see into Slovakia. We then walked a bit more along forest paths, never deep in the woods but skirting through a part closer to civilization. We picknicked in a field with several tables – our usual fare of bread and cheese sandwiches, boiled eggs, yogurt, and fruit. Maeve now can peel and salt her own egg. On the way out, we walked up an endless stair and came out on the road our bus had taken. By that time, the sky was very very ominous. We debated walking back to the S-Bahn, or just taking the bus. It was late, we were lame, and we opted for the bus. Sure enough, on the way home, the bottom fell out and it poured. We were staying in the Dachgeschoss, which means attic, of our apartment house. This mean that our rooms didn’t have windows – just skylights, which actually let in plenty of air and light. But luckily, that one day, we’d shut the skylights before leaving. So we got home mildly damp from our 3-minute trot from the train station, but neither we nor the apartment got soaked.
Our last day in Vienna, Mike was starting to get a cold. That morning, he decided to stay home and go back to sleep, so Maeve and I went to check out the farmer’s market and find a book in English on Budapest. We went to the Naschmarkt, Vienna’s biggest farmers market, and got all kinds of neat things like organic fruit, organic cookies, black olives stuffed with cream cheese (Maeve loves black olives), blueberries, and lunch, which was falafel sandwiches, which we took back to the apartment and ate with Mike. We also walked around a bit – through the Museums quarter on the way to an English bookstore, which was closed. Then from the Nashmarkt, we went to the British Bookshop, which had tons of good books, so I bought a novel to read. The book was the Troublesome Offspring of Cardinal Guzman, by Louis de Berniers, a very funny magical realism story. So they had good books but no travel guide for Budapest. But they told me of a travel bookstore between das Graben, one of the main pedestrian streets, and Michaelerplatz. So Maeve and I walked there, stopping accidently first at a bookstore 2 doors down, and got a book on Budapest. Mission accomplished. We then headed home for lunch and an early nap, because we wanted to take a tour of the cathedral that afternoon.
The cathedral tour was definitely worth it. To go in the central apse, you have to pay (either tour or audioguide) and our guide was good. The pulpit was my favorite – it was carved with pictures of saints and going up the stairwell were little carvings of animals. Underneath there was a head sticking out a window – probably a portrait of the carver. The cathedral was bombed in WWII, Vienna lost about 30% of its downtown. Actually, Vienna seemed much older than many cities in Germany because it lost so few buildings – the cathedral and Opera had to be rebuilt, but most of the other monuments had minimal damage. Anyway, much of the cathedral decorations were stored in the basement – one huge crypt was too heavy to move, so they sandbagged it and it survived. So there was some rebuilding, and they have a new roof, but many of the statues, altars etc are actually originals.
We left Vienna on Sunday morning, with a one-night stopover in Gyor, Hungary in route to Budapest. More about that in the next installment.